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2.2 Indian Weavers

ICE BREAKERS:
 Artisans are also called craftsmen. They are creators of diverse goods and use their hands to create unique, functional and also decorative items using traditional techniques. Now complete the web given below:
Ans: 


 Discuss with your partner the seasons/occasions when 
    we need :
(a) woollen clothes (b) casual clothes
(c) rich silk clothes (d) colourful, comfortable clothes
Ans:


 Let’s play a game. The teacher will ask the students some questions. Students will understand that there are some exceptions to the general rules. Let’s start.
- One who weaves is a weaver. - One who plays a game is a Player
- One who sings is a Singer      - One who dances is a Dancer
- One who teaches is a Teacher - One who cooks is a Cook

 We have often seen the picture of Gandhiji spinning on his charkha. Discuss the reasons behind this. One has been given for you.
(a) To give rural people an opportunity to earn their livelihood.
(b) to propogate Swadeshi movement.
(c) It gives importance to self sufficiency.
(d) weaving cloth oneself, introduced the idea of dignity of labour.

Or

It was symbolic. A protest.

1. Making cloth was a response to mills in Manchester taking cotton from India to make cloth and selling it back to India.

2. It was a response to the destruction of the Indian cloth industry.

It was a message.
1. Weaving cloth oneself, introduced the idea of dignity of labour.

2. Weaving cloth and using only that for ones use meant living within ones means. Not been greedy. The earth has enough for everyone's need but not one man's greed.

It was universal.
1. Everyone could do it. Just as everyone could fast, pray, make salt. Not for Gandhi were hifalutin actions. Simple and powerful, that was his mantra.


 Name some tools used by the weavers.
(a) Loom      (b) Tapestry Needle       (c) Warp Yarn

 Name some types of yarns used by the weavers.
(a) Linen   (b) Cotton   (c) Rayon   (d) Silk   

(e) Polister  (f) Acrylic


BRAINSTORMING:
(A1) Discuss with your partner about the following vocations:
(a) Weaving                              (b) Tailoring
(c) Knitting                               (d) Embroidering
Ans:
a) Weaving : Weaving is a method of textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth.

b) Tailoring: One that makes, repairs, and alters garments such as suits, coats, and dresses.

1. To make (a garment), especially to specific requirements or measurements.

2. To fit or provide a person) with clothes made to that person's measurements.

3. To make, alter, or adapt for a particular end or purpose:

c) Knitting : Knitting is a method by which yarn is manipulated to create a textile or fabric; it is used in many types of garments. Knitting may be done by hand or by machine.

d) Embroidering: to decorate cloth or clothing with patterns or pictures consisting of stitches that are sewn directly onto the material:
                                                 Or
(a) Weaving : Weaving is a method textile production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angle to form a fabric or cloth. Other methods are knitting, crocheting, felting, and braiding or plaiting. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft or filling.The method in which these threads are inter-woven affects the characteristics of the cloth. Cloth is usually woven on a loom, a device that holds the warp threads in place while filling threads are woven through them. A fabric band which meets this definition of cloth (warp threads with a weft thread winding between) can also be made using other methods, including tablet weaving, back strap loom, or other techniques without looms.
The way the warp and filling threads interlace with each other is called the weave. The majority of woven products are created with one of three basic weaves: plain weavesatin weave, or twill. Woven cloth can be plain (in one colour or a simple pattern), or can be woven in decorative or artistic design.

(b) Tailoring: A tailor is a person who makes, repairs, or alters clothing professionally, especially suits and men's clothing.
Although the term dates to the thirteenth century, tailor took on its modern sense in the late eighteenth century, and now refers to makers of men's and women's suitscoatstrousers, and similar garments, usually of woollinen, or silk.
The term refers to a set of specific hand and machine sewing and pressing techniques that are unique to the construction of traditional jackets. Retailers of tailored suits often take their services internationally, traveling to various cities, allowing the client to be measured locally.
Traditional tailoring is called "bespoke tailoring" in the United Kingdom, where the heart of the trade is London's Savile Row tailoring, and "custom tailoring" in the United States and Hong Kong. This is unlike made to measure which uses pre-existing patterns. A bespoke garment or suit is completely original and unique to each customer.

(c) Knitting: Knitting is a method by which yarn is manipulated to create a textile or fabric; it is used in many types of garments. Knitting may be done by hand or by machine.
Knitting creates stitches: loops of yarn in a row, either flat or in the round (tubular). There are usually many active stitches on the knitting needle at one time. Knitted fabric consists of a number of consecutive rows of connected loops that intermesh with the next and previous rows. As each row is formed, each newly created loop is pulled through one or more loops from the prior row and placed on the gaining needle so that the loops from the prior row can be pulled off the other needle without unraveling.
Differences in yarn (varying in fibre type, weight, uniformity and twist), needle size, and stitch type allow for a variety of knitted fabrics with different properties, including color, texture, thickness, heat retention, water resistance, and integrity. A small sample of knitwork is known as a swatch.

(d) Embroidering: Embroidery is the craft of decorating fabric or other materials using a needle to apply thread or yarn. Embroidery may also incorporate other materials such as pearls, beads, quills, and sequins. In modern days, embroidery is usually seen on caps, hats, coats, blankets, dress shirts, denim, dresses, stockings, and golf shirts. Embroidery is available with a wide variety of thread or yarn color.
Some of the basic techniques or stitches of the earliest embroidery are chain stitch, buttonhole or blanket stitch, running stitchsatin stitchcross stitch. Those stitches remain the fundamental techniques of hand embroidery today.

(A2) (i) Discuss the various products made by the weavers in 
             the poem.
Ans: 
1. Beautiful dress for young one, 
2. They weave marriage veils of queen,
3. They weave shroud (cloth put on dead body) for a dead person.

(ii) The words in the three stanzas of the poem mention different times of a day. Complete the table.
Ans:


(iii) The poem reveals three phases of life. Fill in the blanks with feelings and colours appropriate to the phases of life. One is done for you.
Ans:

(iv) Complete: The weavers weave in the chill moonlight
Ans: The weavers weave in the chill moonlight shroud (cloth put on dead body) for a dead person.

(v) Pick out two words used to describe the weavers in the last stanza. Also state their importance.
Ans: The poet used solemn and still to describe the weavers in the last stanza, because they are weaving (cloth put on dead body) for a dead person.

(vi) Express your views about the present condition of weavers.
Ans: Since the advent of the power loom, the handloom industry has been struggling. There are two sides to the struggle – one of the head of the handloom societies and the other of the weavers.

The cost of silk has increased manifold, making the production cost higher than ever before. Power looms are faster than handlooms and they can not only replicate handloom designs, but can also create a larger variety.

While a handloom weaver takes 2-3 days (which can even go up to a week) to weave one sari, a power loom weaver can produce 2-3 saris a day. This is why power loom weavers can deliver customised orders, while handloom weavers find it hard to deal with bulk orders. A weaver earns Rs 500-Rs 3,000 per sari; the larger the wave, the more complex the weaving.

(vii) Describe in your own words the steps or measures that can be taken to solve the problems of the weavers.
Ans: More government intervention is required to save this industry. The government can provide raw materials at subsidised costs, and help with marketing and sales, since wholesale dealers demand that handloom sarees are be sold at power loom rates. Weavers can also be provided insurance schemes, child benefit schemes and long-term benefits, such as pension schemes and bringing back some schemes that addressed some of these benefits that have been phased out.

(viii) Express your own views and opinions from the weavers’ point of view and complete the following table.
Ans: 

(A3) (i) Pick out the rhyming words from the poem.
Ans: i) day - gay; ii) wild-chid ; iii) night - bright

(ii) Give antonyms and synonyms of the following and make sentences of your own.
Ans: 


(iii) Make a word register for clothes/attire/dress.
Ans: apparel, attire, clothing, costumery, dress, duds, garments, rags, raiment, rig, rigging, threads,

(A4) (i) Complete the following table.
Ans:


(ii) The rhyme scheme in the first stanza is 'aabb'. Find rhyme schemes in the second and third stanzas.
Ans:
➧ Rhyme scheme in second stanza aabb
➧ Rhyme scheme in third stanza aabb

(A5) (i) The poet has asked a question at the beginning of every stanza. Explain the effect it creates on the reader.
Ans: In the question the reader knows about the time of the day, the colour of the cloth. The reply gives information about the purpose of the new cloth and why that colour is chosen. The poem is like a conversation between the poet and craftsmen.It conveys the metaphor using time of day and stage of life; the colour and cloth suited for that stage. The mood of the weavers matches the time and purpose of their work. The poem thus proceeds easily

(ii) Write an appreciation of the poem.
Ans: The poet Sarojini Naidu wrote the poem 'Indian Weavers' tells about the work of Indian famous handloom craftsmen. The three stanzas mark the three stages of life. The weavers reply to question about why they are weaving that particular piece of cloth, of certain colour at that time of day. The theme of the poem is cycle of life.

The weaver use colours associated with birth,marriage and death through weaving clothes for a newborn ,a queen bride and a dead man. Three stanzas of four lines each in the form of questions and answers.
The conversational tone gives a flow like life, one stage moving into the text. The poem depicts the metaphor for the cycle of life. New life - dawn, marriage - dusk, and death - night. Simile compares the woven garments to objects in colours apt for that stage of life. The sound 'w occurs a total of 20 times, at least once in all lines except one. This alliteration gives a musical quality. The poem is dedicated to the talented weavers and the fabrics of India which were world famous.
It shows the hard work of craftsmen and how we use their products in every occasion of life. The poem is a beautiful way of the poet to salute the weavers of India. I find that the weavers are not only skillful but also talented. They combine colours and create patterns that are captivating. They know which colour are appropriate for occasions. The Poet brings out their talent as well as their hard working nature.
Or
The poem Indian Weaver by Sarojini Naidu consisting three stanzas having four lines each. It is a short poem. The poet talks about three types dresses that Indian weaver weave at three particular time of the day. Metaphorically each time and the dress weaved symbolises a particular stage of life.


The poem has rhyme scheme AABB. The poet uses a number of literary devices to express her ideas like simile, images, metaphor etc. The poem consist of discussion between poet and the weavers; the poet asks the weaver and the latter reply.

Indian Weavers by Sarojini Naidu sums up the life of human beings on earth in three main stages by using symbols like clothes and times of the day. The journey of life begins with one colour-blue which means joy and happiness.

It continues with the addition of a number of colours-green and purple which means sorrows also enter into life along with happiness. Life is more active in this stage than in the first stage.
In the final stanza, all the colours vanish away and a single colour-white remains which means emotions are connected with life and when the person dies, emotions also die.
OR
Appreciation
Title:

The title of the poem is 'Indian Weaver's' which indicates that the poem is about Indian Weaver's and the variety of the clothes that they have to weave according to associations or incidents.

About the Poem:

It is a narrative poem written in form of questions and answers. The Poem represents the true soul of India. It also depicts tradition and culture particularly importance of the colors during journey of life and its stages.

About the Poet:

The Poem is written by Sarojini Naidu. She sings original song of India and hence she is rightly called as the Nightingale of India. Her poetry is marked with the true soul of India.

She is known for the clarity of thoughts. She depicts philosophy of life. As a poet she is humanitarian is true
sense.

Theme:

In this poem the poetess speaks about three important stages of life and relates them with different parts of the day. Birth is the first stage and blue cloth is woven in the morning. For marriage green and purple veil is woven in the evening and finally white shroud for dead is woven at night.

Style:

The poetess has used very simple but sweet and rhythmical language. It is written in colloquial form. The poem is full of musical words like Plumes , halcyon and feather. The rhyme scheme of the poem is 'aabb'. There are many figures of speech are used in this poem such as Repetition, Alliteration, Metaphor and Simile. Metaphor is dominant figure of speech

Special Features:

The special Features of the poem are Rhythm, Philosophy, Symbolism imagery. The Poet has painted the picture of Indian Weavers who weaves tirelessly at different times of the day.

This poem has been used as an imaginary to describe the three stages of human life, from birth to death, just as the Weaver's weave from dawn to night

Opinion:

The my opinion about the Poem is that the poem gives the true picture of the Indian traditions, we get clear understanding of the real sense of India. The poem is highly rhythmical. The words are simple and musical. I really liked the Poem for its picturesque qualities.

(iii) Compose four lines on 'Importance of clothes.'
Ans:                Cloth gives us Identity 
                    clothes empower confidence 
                         You will be attractive 
                               wear it once.

Or
                         I wonder 
                        Who I might become?
                         If I wore another man's clothes 
                         If I thought his thoughts 
                         Dreamed his dreams 
                         Lived his heartache 
                         Felt his insanity 
                        Walked along the razor's edge...

(iv) Write an appeal to use handloom products in our daily life.
Ans:


Download 

Or

(v) Visit a handloom factory near your locality and write a report of it.
Ans:
Glimpses of Handloom.

Discovery group, 28/06/2020

Students of the M.G.junior college went on an educational tour Manpur village to take a tour of the handloom factory there. The students viewed many processes involved in the weaving of a saree. The students were taken on a guided tour by a local who is a family member of one of the Weavers - households of the village. In the first stage of bundles of white yarn were strung on iron frames.
The frames held by two men used dipped into hot iron vats of boiling dye. The yarn is dipped several times, thoroughly drenched for the colour to coat the yarn . After several minutes the men transfer each bundle on to short thick rods. They twist the sticks to wring the bundle dry. A third man takes the hot bundle on another stick and lays the bundles to dry. The next stage the students saw was coloured yarn stretched on frames several metres long. This was outside in the open.
The guide told us it was for sari. It was a blue yarn in the middle with purple yarn on both sides lengthwise, for borders. Each yarn os stretched the number of threads for each colour counted.
There were long buildings which are the workshops.

Here are frames, loomes and the weavers seated before each loom. Each weaver was working on saree. The guide told us that one saree averagely takes four to seven days. If the design is complicated and in different colours it look longer.
The finished products are folded and packaged for the market. The tour ended with the students speaking to the weavers at the looms and craftsmen dyeing the yarns.

The craftsmen spoke to the visitors giving interesting details about the popular colour combinations. They told us about auspicious colours for special occasions. The artisans also spoke about a different place where traditional nine-yard long are woven. Those are mostly for weddings. The students took photographs of various processes and artisans.

Or

Visit to Handloom Factory

Surat is the Best place to visit to understand about traditional Handloom making process which is located in nice environment, down south Gujarat. The well experienced friendly staff will explain about the product in details and the whole journey of the manufacturing process and how it becomes different from the other industries. There we can see a range of designs and colours are on offer; individual and innovative designs, craftsmanship, colour combination. This is a unique opportunity to get to know how this hand loom production take place. Absolutely interesting to see and experience when you are in down south Gujarat or in Maharashtra. Worth place to visit.

(vi) A handicraft exhibition is being organized in your college. You are given the task to compere the inaugural function. Write the script for compering.
Ans:  
1)Introduction: A very good morning and warm welcome to all. This is for very special kind of occasion we have gathered here this morning. We want to bring the spotlight on that section of our nations citizenry, who are carrying thousands of years of our heritage on their shoulders! No in their skillful fingers!! Yes our very talented craftsmen. We have our craftsmen with their various talents to showcase their beautiful creations. We have the weavers if rich paithani skills,warli painters, the makers of the famous, kolhapur leather- footwear, the intricate Bidri brassware, the Dhurrie weavers, Banjara Embroidery.. all these from Maharashtra. We have men and women with magic in their hands from other states too. Craftsmen have come from distant Meghalaya and Nagaland from neighbouring Gujrat. We have the makers of the amazing Kashmiri embroidery to the wooden toy makers from Andhra. And so many more.

2) Welcome speech:

Our respected Principal, Shri Vijay Patil, our beloved teachers staff and all my dear friends, join me in welcoming the Honourable chief guest, the textile minister XXXXXXX to this exciting and colourful programme. A very warm welcome to you. It is a great pleasure and an honour to have you here. And a warm welcome to all the parents and all guests.

3) Inaugural ceremony: Lighting of the lamp. I request our chief guest and our principal to kindly come to the dais. We request you to light the ceremonial lamp in the traditional Indian way to declare the exhibition open.

4) Prayer Song: And now kindly take your seats for a short programme before we go around viewing the exhibition. Music is such a positive influence. So starting on a note of gratitude we have the prayer song by the stars of our music club, xxxxxx is accompanying them on the violin.

5) Welcome Programme:

Thank you for that lovely song to begin the programme my friends. Now for unique performance, We have a Fashion show. It is unique because the students of our college and our participating craftsmen - guests worked together for the last few days. This is a first! A big round of applause for our models on the catwalk!

6) Concluding Remarks:
Thank you for your encouragement! wasn't that wonderful? You may have noticed for yourself, but let me clarify.

The stylish saris, salwar suits, elegant kurtas , those shawls, the stunning neck pieces, the baskets on the ladies arms, the wooden screens in the backdrop the lampshades on the stage, the carpet on the catwalk...and all the decor you can see on.
The stage are all creations of the masters who are displaying their creations in the exhibitions! You now have an idea of what is in store for dressing stylishly, or doing up your home elegantly. That was only starters!
The main course is still waiting for you. And there is dessert as well.
1) I now request our chief guest to address the audience.


2) Thank you for those words of praise and appreciation of the craftsmen. They richly deserve them.

3) This is first time a college is hosting such an exhibition. We welcome you all to go around and view the stunning collection of handicraft products. There are master workers who will show you how some of their handicraft is created. They will happily demonstrate their ancient skills. You can watch how the lovely designs we wear are made at the loom. There are demos to show the yarn being dyed and informative presentations showing the stages in process. The bedwork artisans can help guests to select stones. and make them into elegant neck pieces. There are stalls selling numerous stunning products, apparel,decor pieces for your homes, gifts for the festival season.
I invite our honourable chief guest to formally declare the exhibition open and take a leisurely round of the displays.

4) Thank you all for making this festival of crafts a resounding success.

(A6) (i) Go to your college library and collect and read the poems written by Sarojini Naidu.
Ans:  There are some poems given to read
1) Past and Future

The new hath come and now the old retires:
And so the past becomes a mountain-cell,
Where lone, apart, old hermit-memories dwell 
In consecrated calm, forgotten yet 
Of the keen heart that hastens to forget 
Old longings in fulfilling new desires.

And now the Soul stands in a vague, intense 
Expectancy and anguish of suspense, 
On the dim chamber-threshold ... lo! he sees
Like a strange, fated bride as yet unknown,
His timid future shrinking there alone, 
Beneath her marriage-veil of mysteries.


-Sarojini Naidu
2) The Gift of India

Is there aught you need that my hands withhold, 
Rich gifts of raiment or grain or gold?
Lo! I have flung to the East and West 
Priceless treasures torn from my breast, 
And yielded the sons of my stricken womb 
To the drum-beats of duty, the sabres of doom.

Gathered like pearls in their alien gravès 
Silent they sleep by the Persian waves, 
Scattered like shells on Egyptian sands, 
They lie with pale brows and brave, broken hands, 
They are strewn like blossoms mown down by chance 
On the blood-brown meadows of Flanders and France.

Can you measure the grief of the tears I weep 
Or compass the woe of the watch I keep?
Or the pride that thrills thro' my heart's despair 
And the hope that comforts the anguish of prayer?
And the far sad glorious vision I see 
Of the town red banners of Victory?

When the terror and tumult of hate shall cease 
And life be refashioned on anvils of peace, 
And your love shall offer memorial thanks 
To the comrades who fought in your dauntless ranks, 
And you honour the deeds of the deathless ones, 
Remember the blood of my martyred sons!


-Sarojini Naidu
3) Life

CHILDREN, ye have not lived, to you it seems
Life is a lovely stalactite of dreams, 
Or carnival of careless joys that leap
About your hearts like billows on the deep
In flames of amber and of amethyst.

Children, ye have not lived, ye but exist

Till some resistless hour shall rise and move 
Your hearts to wake and hunger after love,
And thirst with passionate longing for the things
That burn your brows with blood-red sufferings.

Till ye have battled with great grief and fears, 
And borne the conflict of dream-shattering years,

Wounded with fierce desire and worn with strife,
Children, ye have not lived: for this is life.


-Sarojini Naidu
4) The Poet To Death

TARRY a while, O Death, I cannot die 
While yet my sweet life burgeons with its spring;
Fair is my youth, and rich the echoing boughs 
Where dhadikulas sing.

Tarry a while, O Death, I cannot die 
With all my blossoming hopes unharvested,

My joys engendered, all my songs unsung,
And all my tears unshed.

Tarry a while, till I am satisfied
Of love and grief, of earth and altering sky; 
Till all my human hungers are fulfilled, 
O Death, I cannot die!


-Sarojini Naidu

5) To India

O YOUNG through all thy immemorial years!
Rise, Mother, rise, regenerate from thy gloom,
And, like a bride high-mated with the spheres,
Beget new glories from thine ageless womb!

The nations that in fettered darkness weep 
Crave thee to lead them where great mornings break.

Mother, O Mother, wherefore dost thou sleep?
Arise and answer for thy children's sake!

Thy Future calls thee with a manifold sound
To crescent honours, splendours, victorious vast;
Waken, O slumbering Mother and be crowned, 
Who once wert empress of the sovereign Past.


-Sarojini Naidu


(ii) Find various career opportunities in Small Scale Industries like Handloom, Art and Craft, Block Printing etc.
Ans: Small scale industries (SSI) refer to those small entrepreneurs who are engaged in production, manufacturing or service at a micro scale. Small scale industries play a focal role in the economic and social development of India in the post-independence era. Small scale industries constitute the backbone of a developing economy with its effective, efficient, flexible and innovative entrepreneurial spirit.Round the world SSI units have been accepted originator of economic growth and for promoting equitable development. The contribution of SSIs to the Indian economy in terms of employment generation, reducing regional imbalances, promoting inter-sectorial linkages, magnifying exports and fostering equitable economic growth potential has been quite marvellous. This sector through more than 6000 products ranging from traditional to high-tech, consisting over 36 million units widely dispersed across the country provides employment to over 80 million persons, contributes about 8% to country's GDP beside accounting for 45% of manufactured output and 40% to the export from the country. [1] The SSI sector has the prospective to spread industrial growth round the country and can be a considerable associate in the progress of comprehensive growth. The target of proposed National Manufacturing Policy of enhancing the share of manufacturing sector in GDP to 25% and to create 100 million jobs by end of 2022, as well as to take India from its present 2 trillion dollar economy to 20 trillion dollar economy can be achieved with the help of SSI units. The paper attempts to discuss the role of small scale industries in developing the economy and explore the various problems faced by it.

(iii) Find out information about the Mahavastra of Maharashtra- Paithani.
Ans: Paithani (Marathi:पैठणी) is a variety of sari, named after the Paithan town in Aurangabad Maharashtra state where the saree was first handmade. Present day Yeola town in Nashik, Maharashtra is the largest manufacturer of Paithani. Made from very fine silk, it is considered as one of the most expensive saris in India. It is one of the most famous saris in India.It is also considered to be made from the finest silk in India.
Paithani is characterised by borders of an oblique square design, and a pallu with a Peacock design. Plain as well as spotted designs are available. Among other varieties, single colored and kaleidoscope-colored designs are also popular. The kaleidoscopic effect is achieved by using one color for weaving lengthwise and another for weaving width wise.

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